Annoying trunk lid problem fixed

With the help of a neighbour I finally figured out a problem that has annoyed me for years. When I closed the trunk lid the left hinge felt as though it was binding - there was always a small 'thud' sound and a shudder. This never happened when I opened the trunk lid. I checked the hinges up close: they're the same and not bent. The tension rod/spring was installed correctly.

As it turns out the problem is the angle between the torsion spring and left hinge. This angle is too shallow compared to the right hinge which functions normally. To be specific, it's where the U-shaped part of the torsion bar fits into the slotted piece of the hinge assembly. This shallow angle causes the two pieces to bind - resulting in the thud sound and shudder

It seems a previous owner tried to solve the same problem by welding a small rod in the U-shaped part of the torsion bar. I did solve it by placing a 3mm shim in the slotted piece of the hinge assembly (piece of tubing cut lengthwise). This created more distance between the spring and hinge resulting in a steeper angle.

The trunk lid now not only closes as it should but also opens wider (a good 4"). 

Trunk restoration (part 2)

Picking up where I left off with the trunk,

I used a vacuum cleaner to suck up all the dust and sand that was in the wheel wells and behind the rear quarters. Reason for doing this was the rust prevention product I was going to spray with an air gun next. It's important that the spray reaches (or seeps into) all nooks and crannies. Dust and sand get in the way and soak up the product. 

The product I used is Caprotech RX5, "a transparent product with a strong penetrating formula, penetrates through existing rust and bonds to the metal, completely isolating existing rust". The air gun is intended to be used with undercoating and rust prevention products (not with paint). It came with two nylon hoses about 2.5 feet long; one has a tip that sprays 360 degrees, the other one has a grip and nozzle that's at an 90 degrees angle. The two 55 litre LPG made it a bit difficult to see if I had reached everywhere so I simply sprayed until drips were forming at the lowest points on the outside of the car (doglegs, rear wheel arch etc.) 

 

 

Next I doubled-up on the sticky-back asphaltic sound deadening material where the factory placed it but I also stuck it on the trunk floor and the flat pieces that go over the 'frame' rails. If you knock in different areas you get a very good idea where you do and don't need to put this stuff. I'm not going to place additional sound deadening material because that was already done in the passenger compartment when a PO had the interior redone. 

So far I was only able to fit the first five pieces of the trunk kit from Leather Restorations/Jim Wallace. They cover the upright area in front of the rear bumper and tail lights. It took a bit of trying because I had to take into account the hoses, lines and cables from the LPG installation. It covered up 90% of that mess, which is better than I had expected. In a normal trunk the kit would fit no problem. Good stuff. Though it a good idea to test fit everything before you start spraying glue. 

At first I thought to cover-up the two LPG tanks with old leather travelling bags or suitcases. But this called for using parts of the trunk kit that just don't fit right or look presentable. Instead I opted to build covers for both tanks that - as luck would have it - fit very nicely with the trunk kit pieces I still can use. They line-up with the largest piece in the trunk kit - the one that covers the floor and gas tank.

I used hard-board, duct tape, bendy plastic and PVC pipe (for the rounded edges). It's a cheap and effective solution but it takes a few hours of cutting and fitting and cutting and fitting and cutting and fitting etc. It doesn't look like much now but wait until they're covered with the extra trunk liner material I ordered with the trunk kit.

The need for my steering gear mounts - replacement kits

This video graphically illustrates the need for my steering gear mounts - replacement kit. Not only do worn out steering gear mounts lead to annoying and costly repairs. When they break they are potentially dangerous: imagine driving around with a steering gear box that's no longer attached to the frame:


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62-68 Continental & 62-66 Thunderbird steering gear mounts - replacement kit

This kit is a direct replacement for the three original 'steering gear mounts' or 'insulators' (C3SA-3C716-A). These were installed on 62-66 Ford Thunderbirds and on 1962-1968 Lincoln Continentals (used on vehicles built after July 13th 1961). The kit includes three solid steel donuts and three grade 8 bolts (the original lock washers and thick metal washers can be re-used). The bolts are sourced from a reputable US supplier. 

The three new bolts included in the kit are necessary because your three old ones will be too short. The old bolts thread into the insulators which in turn thread into the steering gear box. The new bolts will simply go through the solid steel donuts and thread directly into the steering gear box.

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$75 shipped within the Continental US (USPS)
Combined shipping available
Sold on eBay (seller 50-c). Current listings:
1962 1963 1964 Lincoln Continental steering gear mounts - replacement kit
1965 1966 1967 1968 Lincoln Continental steering gear mounts - replacement kit
1962 1963 1064 1965 1966 Ford Thunderbird steering gear mounts - replacement kit

€75 shipped within the EU (without Track&Trace).  
Other shipping options and combined shipping available
I use PayPal. Contact me at: continentalcarparts@outlook.com

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Specialist parts suppliers sell sets of rebuilt insulators between $135 and $195 and even up to $300! I put together a replacement kit for myself and a friend but had enough material for a few extra.  

Why use solid steel donuts instead of (rebuilt) original mounts? The original mounts fit between the frame rails and steering gear box. Being rubber-impregnated they were intended to isolate vibration and road feel. Not only did they fail to provide an improvement to the luxury feel of the car, they turned out to be a design flaw - and even a liability. They were discontinued in 1969 as Ford found that the rubber would degrade, causing the steering gear box to twist at odd angles that other steering components weren't designed to tolerate. This causes premature wear in the Pitman arm, idler arm, centre drag link and steering coupler - resulting in a car that wanders over the road and has loose steering. When the mounts become even more loose, the steering shaft can rub against the shift tube, physically moving the shift lever as the wheel is turning. This is a dangerous situation. The combination of excessive movement of the steering gear box and the force exerted on it, can even cause the bolts to snap off. This is an even more dangerous situation.

 

 

 

This is what my old original steering gear mounts looked like. Note that the mount on the right had almost no rubber left on it. 

 Original steering gear mount (not included in the kit)

Power steering line/hose

I noticed that the power steering line/hose between the steering box and wiper assembly had begun to weep at the steering box fitting. It's likely 50 years old so I had a new one made. When a hydraulic hose goes bad you get very little or no warning. When it blows you lose power steering and the crank driven (!) power steering pump runs dry... that's both very dangerous and costly.

The hydraulic shop wasn't able to reuse the chromed line due to metric vs. imperial issues. Instead they made a metric hose with an imperial fitting at each end. It fit well. Before running the engine I put the car on jacks stands and bled the system of air by turning the front wheels full-lock a few times. After that I started the engine - no leaks. Test drove it for a leisurely hour - no leaks. I tightened the fittings one more time now that everything had gotten nice and hot and called it a day.

The new hose is not OEM correct but I really don't care. My car is a nice driver, not a show car.

1964 Lincoln Continental Road Test

Motor Trend / April 1964 

Lincoln Continental Road Test 

by Bob McVay, Assistant Technical Editor 

Lincoln's first major dimension change since 1961 gives the Continental more room, more luxury for '64 

LUXURY IS DEFINITELY the big thing the Continental has to offer -- not flashy, startling luxury but quiet, tasteful luxury that the driver and passengers notice the first time they ride in the car. It's a distinctive automobile. Its relatively low production (33,717 new Lincolns were registered in 1963) and its overall appearance make it that way, especially in the case of our test car. Continental makes the only four-door convertible in this country. 

Lincoln doesn't go in for a radical new look every year. Subtle changes in the grille and ornamentation can be noticed on 1964 Continentals, but you have to look closely to tell a '64 model from a '63 unless they're parked side by side. 

Here's where the biggest difference would make itself readily apparent: The 1964 is longer; its wheelbase and overall length are greater by a full three inches, making this the first major dimension change since 1961. The added length gives back-seat passengers noticeably more leg-, hip-, knee-, and head room. The rear doors are three inches longer, providing easier exit and entry. The return to flat glass side windows has added 5.4 inches in head room width. Even luggage space has been increased by 15 per cent, which means an additional two cubic feet of storage area. 

From the driver's seat, we had excellent vision in directions. Even shorter drivers will have no difficulty seeing all four fenders. Our Continental was easy to maneuver and park, despite its size and bulk, we immediately noticed another change for 1964: The entire dash has been redesigned, with a larger, easier-to-read speedometer replacing last year's smallish unit (which we felt was too small). Nice, legible gauges are furnished for oil pressure, battery charge, water temperature, and fuel level, while a warning light comes on when the gas tank gets dangerously low. 

Driving position is comfortable. The leather seats are soft and luxurious, yet firm enough to give good leg-, hip-, and back support, even on the longest drives. A comfortable center arm rest's provided in both front and rear. All controls are easy to reach from the driver's seat. The new dash incorporates integral air outlets for the car's heater/air-conditioning system, and the ignition switch's relocated at the right of the steering wheel. Passengers can direct the plow of air either up, down, or to either side via the adjustable vents. 

Our test car was fitted with top-grain leather upholstery, with expanded vinyl door trim panels and wood-grain door inserts. Individually adjustable front seats with a center console can be ordered for an additional $281.40. 

Out on the highway or around town, the Continental was an extremely pleasant, well mannered car. It handled around-town trips with ease and, despite its size, was easy to maneuver in tight situations. Sharp dips taken at above-average speeds wouldn't bottom the suspension. Everything from railroad tracks to the roughest dirt roads was absorbed quietly and well by the Continental's refined suspension. Big, heavy coil springs up front and semi-elliptical leaves at the rear do their job exceptionally well. No matter how rough the road surface, passengers have to look outside to be aware of it. 

Out on the highway, the Continental really comes into its own. This car is a luxury cross-country cruiser. Except for an ever-so-slight wind whistle around the windows and top, the car's dead silent at any speed. Certainly the wind noise wasn't objectionable - it just let us know we were whistling along. At any speed up to 100 mph, the car seems to be loafing. Even at its top speed of slightly less than 110 mph, it wasn't turning fast enough to make the engine work hard. 

The Continental's right at home charging around winding mountain roads. For a car of its ponderous size and weight, it handled very well on the twisty stuff. Body lean was never great, while traction and stability were quite good. Even on long downhill grades, the brakes refused to show more than a slight amount of fade. 

Lincoln's twin-range Turbo-Drive three-speed automatic transmission is smooth in operation, with quick, solid, almost inaudible gear changes. It also proved handy for climbing or coming down steep grades. The INTERMEDIATE range held the car's progress down on inclines and kept the revs up at a usable level on long upgrades. 

Our test car's engine was the same as the 1963 Continental's -- a big, 430-cubic-inch V-8 that puts out 320 hp. It does its job quietly and smoothly under all conditions. Using a four-barrel carburetor, the engine puts out 465 pounds-feet of torque at a low 2600 rpm. As mentioned before, its stresses are low at any speed. It's designed for long years of smooth, trouble-free performance, and even in so heavy an automobile, performance is nothing to be ashamed of. 

Our acceleration figures, with two staff members and all our test equipment on board, were slower than the 1963 sedan's. The convertible weighs 700 pounds more to start with, but it still turned zero to 60 mph in 12.1 seconds and hit 30 and 45 mph in 4.1 and 8.0 seconds on the way up. Our clocks stopped at 19.1 seconds as we crossed the end of our quarter-mile test strip, with the fifth-wheel electric speedometer showing just a shade over 70 mph. 

A big engine powering a heavy automobile is hardly an economical combination, but taking the car's size and weight into consideration, our best mileage of 11.8 wasn't bad. This we got during moderate highway driving with two people and no luggage on board, at speeds of 50-65 mph. Around-town driving averaged from 8.7 to 9.5 mpg, with fast highway cruising between nine and 10 mpg. Our overall average for nearly 1000 test miles was 9.9. Naturally, the Continental's 10.1-to-1 compression ratio demands premium fuel. Lincoln engineers have provided owners with a big, 24-gallon fuel tank, which gives a 240-250-mile cruising range. 

On close inspection, owners will notice something new about the tires. They're bigger, 9.15 x 15-inches of a low-profile design that puts more tread on the road. They give less rolling resistance than former tires, resulting in less tread wear and longer life. Besides, the bigger, 15-inch wheels allow more air around brake drums for better heat dissipation. The new tires have a contoured safety-shoulder design for better directional stability and handling on corners. Wheels are mounted on precision-machined hubs for truer running. 

Continental engineers have gone all out to look after the smallest detail. Owners are among the most pampered drivers in the world. A few examples are the dash warning light that signals the driver when a rear door is open. Since the rear doors are hanged at the rear, driving off with one ajar could be catastrophic. As you open the rear doors on the convertible, the side windows automatically open slightly, then roll up again when the door's closed. The fuse box is located in a panel just to the left of the glove compartment for easy replacement of fuses. These are only a few of the many little details that give Continental owners that extra pampered feeling few others get. 

With a base price of $6919, our convertible ranks as one of the highest-priced cars on the American market. Add $504 for air conditioning, $53,65 for tinted glass, and $6.90 for door-edge guards, plus $205 for transportation, and the total comes to $7686 before tax and license. A luxury price tag indeed. 

But, where optional equipment costs extra on lesser cars, it's standard on Continentals. Full power: brakes, steering, windows, seats, vents. door locks, antenna, deck lid, and top are all standard. Turbo-Drive three-speed automatic transmission, AM radio with rear speaker. four-ply whitewall tires, undercoating, center arm rests, electric washers, and hydraulic wipers are also part of the basic package. New standard items for 1964 include an automatic parking brake release, trip odometer, fuel warning light, and map and reading lights. 

The option list is relatively short, but it does include a limited-slip differential, speed control, automatic headlight dimmer, and a deck lid release for the sedan. Standard axle ratio is 2.89. but a 3.11 ratio can be ordered for towing or mountain driving. All Continentals have a 24,000-mile/24-month warranty. 

We couldn't fine any major complaints with the Continental. Luggage room in the convertible is almost non-existent with the top down, and the heater/air conditioner seems more complicated to operate than units on cars in the same price range (although our unit did an excellent job of keeping temperature where we wanted it). The car's unit-construction body proved completely tight and rattle-free. Ride, comfort, and luxury are above reproach. Lincoln engineers still insist on testing each and every car before it leaves the factory to make sure all components work properly. We always felt relaxed during and after even the longest trips. 

Lincoln Continental owners pay a premium price for their transportation, but our opinion is that they get their money's worth. It's a fine automobile in every way. 

1- The Continental's crisp, straight-edge styling is apparent from any angle. Car always gets admiring glances from passers-by. With top down , longer body profile is more noticeable. Three coat, acrylic base, enamel paint is hard and resists chipping.
2- Powerful 320 hp V-8 is unchanged from last year. It loafs at speeds below 100 mph, has plenty of power for every situation, and is extremely smooth and quiet. The maze of plumbing necessary for extensive power equipment makes all but routine maintenance hard. Air-conditioned cars use a 52-ampere battery.
3- On mountains or winding roads, the Lincoln handles very well for its size and weight. With 30 psi all around, handling is practically near dead neutral, with excellent stability and control.
4- Heavier by 700 pounds, convertible took more feet for 60 mph stops than last year's sedan. Brakes always feel strong, give good stopping power under all conditions, without undue wheel lock-up or swerving. Overheating is never a problem.
5- America's only four-door convertible is also the only US car with rear-hinged rear doors. All passengers enjoy spacious seating, with lots of leg room. The door latches use a rubber-cushioned double safety design. Wood-grained door panels are standard equipment, along with nylon yarn pile-cut carpeting 
6- The convertible top doesn't billow out much at high speeds, although it makes for more wind noise than sedan over 70 mph. The sedan's lighter weight gives it an edge in acceleration.

7- Familiar hood ornament, Continental trade mark adds to the overall appearance of quality and tastefulness of design. 
8- Newly designed dash, with integrated air outlets and new steering wheel, are 1964 features. The visors and dash are padded, mirror is bonded directly to windshield. Hood is wide, flat for good driving vision, and easy-to-see fenders aid parking. 
9- One dash-mounted lever does the entire job of raising or lowering top. There's only snaps to snap and top boot to attach 
10- Once rear deck has opened, the top electrically unfastens itself and heads for deck area. Rear window can be unzipped. 
11- Top folds itself neatly in place and disappears into the trunk. 
12- With top down there's very little space for anything else. Two small bags or a briefcase could be carried. Of course, the top must go up in order to remove spare tire from its nest. Electric screws in deck lid fasten it securely in place. The driver never has to leave his nice, comfortable leather seat.

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL 

4-door, 6-passenger convertible 

OPTIONS ON CAR TESTED: Air conditioning, tinted glass, door-edge guards 

BASIC PRICE: $6916 

PRICE AS TESTED: $7686.15 (plus tax and license) 

ODOMETER READING AT START OF TEST: 4250 miles 

RECOMMENDED ENGINE RED LINE: 5200 rpm 

PERFORMANCE 

ACCELERATION (2 aboard) 

0-30 mph ....................................................... 4.1 secs. 

0-45 mph ....................................................... 8.0 

0-60 mph ..................................................... 12.1 

Standing start 1/4-mile 18.4 secs. and 71 mph 

Speeds in gears @ 4000 rpm 

1st ................................................................ 45 mph 

2nd ............................................................... 77 mph 

3rd .............................................................. 110 mph 

Speedometer Error on Test Car 

Car's speedometer reading ...... 35 52 56 68 78 90 

Weston electric speedometer ... 30 45 50 60 70 80 

SPECIFICATIONS FROM MANUFACTURER 

Engine 

Ohv V-8 

Bore: 4.30 ins. 

Stroke: 3.70 ins. 

Displacement: 430.0 cu. ins. 

Compression ratio: 10.1:1 

Horsepower: 320 @ 4600 rpm 

Torque: 459 lbs.-ft. @ 2600 rpm 

Horsepower per cubic inch: 0.744 

Carburation: 1 4-bbl. 

Ignition: 12-volt coil 

Gearbox 

3-speed automatic; column mounted lever 

Driveshaft 

1-piece, open tube 

Differential 

Hypoid, semi-floating 

Installed ratio: 3.11:1 

Suspension 

Front: Independent ball joint, with coil springs, 

upper and lower control arms, direct-acting tubular shocks, and anti-roll bar 

Rear: Rigid axle, with 7-leaf, semi-elliptic springs, direct-acting tubular shocks 

Steering 

Recirculation ball and nut, with integral power 

Turning diameter: 45.7 ft. 

Turns lock to lock: 3.8 

Wheels and Tires 

5-lug, steel disc wheels 

9.15 x 15 4-ply rayon tubeless whitewall tires 

Brakes 

Hydraulic, duo-servo, with integral power assist; self-adjusting 

Front and rear: 11.09-in. dia. x 3.0 ins. wide. 

Front, aluminum with cast-iron liner; rear, cast-iron 

Effective lining area: 227.0 sq. ins. 

Body and Frame 

Unitized, with torque-box under-body construction 

Wheelbase 126.0 ins. 

Track: front, 62.1 ins.; rear, 61.0 ins. 

Overall length: 216.3 ins. 

Overall width: 78.6 ins. 

Curb weight: 5700 lbs.

Ford Magic Skyway

The Ford Magic Skyway was an attraction at the 1964-1965 Worlds Fair in New York, sponsored by The Ford Motor Company and built by Disney. Guests were seated in one of 50 new Ford, Mercury or Lincoln convertibles and rode through plastic tunnels around the outside of the rotunda for sweeping views of the fairgrounds, then right inside the exhibit building to the number of elaborate sets and displays within. There they viewed dioramas of different time periods or scenes. The massive undertaking took three years for the Disney Imagineers to create and used enough steel to raise a 22 story building. The Magic Skyway was scrapped at the end of the fair but lead to many ideas for further Disney rides. 

 
Bob Gurr created the track system that pulled the cars along.  
Read more about him here.

Aerial view of the Ford Motor Company Pavilion
(photo by Bradd Schiffman)

Walt Disney and Henry Ford II embark on a publicity trip for The Magic Skyway (photo by Craig Bavaro)

Tales from the body shop #4

The rear quarter has been painted. Hooray!

Now we have to wait for two replacement trim pieces to arrive from Lincoln Land, one of two large US dealers in classic Lincoln Continental parts. The other one is called Bakers Auto. Both offer good service. On the upside, they have a great assortment of rare parts. On the downside, their prices reflect this.

I visited Lincoln Land in 2012. Here are a few shots from the yard... I couldn't believe my eyes. So many cars & parts!

Tales from the body shop #3

Getting there..... Primer paint is on.

Tales from the body shop #2

Inching closer to completion. The body shop found another spot of rust.
The car's now ready for metal finishing and filler. 

Tales from the body shop #1

The car is at the body shop. The dents have been pulled and metal work is under way.

There's more body filler than I would've thought.

There was also a rust spot hiding behind the piece of trim at the bottom of the quarter panel. The whole bottom lip needs to be cut out and replaced with fresh steel.

Anonymous jerk damaged my car

Nasty surprise this weekend.... 

Wanted to go for a cruise. Got to where I store my car - a barn at a farm where caravans and campers are stored. As I pulled off the dust cover I saw a left rear quarter that has been hit hard not once but twice by a camper or caravan. The jerk must've known that he hit my car... all the chipped paint was cleaned off the floor. 

The chrome and stainless trim seems to be unhurt save for the lower horizontal piece between the wheel and bumper end. I'm pissed off but in the end this is a matter to be settled by my insurance company.

 

Sixties Continentals weak point #2: burn

The 1964-1965 Lincoln Continental has three weak points. Their potential for damage can be summarized as 'clunk, burn and crash '. Today we address #2: burn.

The in-dash ammeter or amp gauge is notorious for having corroded terminals. This causes weird electrical problems. It has also proven to be a fire hazard: many '64 and '65 Continentals have burned to the ground because of an electrical fire started by the ammeter as it shorted to ground (in effect: the chromed dash panel). To add insult to injury: this is a non-fused circuit.

Heading home from a car show I saw smoke coming from the dash. The ammeter needle was all the way to the right. I pulled over immediately and turned the engine off. The chrome dash bezel was very, very hot. The top right corner of the ammeter had melted and the whole thing was discoloured.

I decided to disconnect the ammeter from the wiring loom (but to keep it installed in the dash of course). I cut both ammeter wires at the back of the gauge and connected them together.  I installed a 70 amp fuse between the battery (+) and the starter motor relay (+). Better be safe than sorry (about your burned-to-the-ground slabside). I installed a volt meter in the glove box compartment. 

For fire-safety reasons alone I can suggest this to all '64 and '65 owners. It'll take you an hour/hour and a half. Just remove the metal dash bezel and you can get the ammeter out from the dash.

If you want to keep the ammeter hooked up: add a fuse, clean the terminals and check for damage to the ammeter and/or the wiring. Most importantly: update the ammeter as explained in this service bulletin: